Maurizio Galante

The Ministry of Culture and Communication invited Italian designer Maurizio Galante to present the pieces and decorative objects designed ... by himself in the rooms of the Palais Royal for the second season in the Haute Couture calendar. Thrilled Maurizio showcased his pieces which play with stratification, pleats and volume and which are created in beautiful fabrics such as organza and silk. It was one way for the minister, Christine Albanel to emphasise that the values of handcraftsmanship and Haute Couture savoir-faire exist only in Paris.

Gaspard Yurkievich

Gaspard Yurkievich, new artistic director at Rodier, presented a chic and sensual Gaspard Yurkievich men’s collection for summer 2009. ... His suit trousers bring to mind the famous Chanel tweed jackets, whilst his belted trenches are collarless and the shoes two-coloured.

Olga Sorokina

The first Russian Haute Couture fashion house, IRFE, which opened at the beginning of last century, took advantage of ... Paris fashion week to showcase Olga Sorokina who revealed for the occasion during a cocktail at the the Palais de Tokyo, her first collection for this label called “Renaissance” and prepared an exhibition on the artist Alexandre Vassiliev entitled “The Russian emigration and fashion in the 1920’s.” This young Russian woman has initiated the rebirth of this fashion house, which also chose Paris in 1924 to house its first fashion show.

Udo Edling

An intuitive collection for Udo Edling who, as indicated backstage, didn’t want to follow a specific trend but to ... do what he wanted. The fashion show that took place on the final day of the Haute Couture fashion week was inspired by Fahra Palavi, empress of Iran, and by the Persian rose. So we rediscover powdery colours centred around pinks, purples and chocolate brown. There was lots of legerity in the collection and despite the presence of many coats, it is above all a preview of the summer 2009 collection with suits, skirts and trousers teamed with collarless coats, dresses with impeccable finishes including a long, back revealing number which fits very close to the body.

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix has drawn inspiration from his roots: The south, Arles and Spain to come up with his Haute ... Couture winter collection. His praying mantises dressed in black and jet lace made up a sombre wardrobe. The waists are tight and elongated in the form of a point, skirts are ruffled, shoulders squared. The embroidered matador’s cape is worn over a little black dress which is very simple but very beautiful. Do the dresses bouffant sleeves narrowed at the hands and with high waists hide a pregnancy bump? The emotion is there; Christian Lacroix has once more conquered his public and by way of thanks they showered him in carnations.

Chanel Cruise show

The Chanel Cruise show for 2008 took place once again in America but this time in Miami. After a hanger ... of planes arrived at Santa Monica airport, the Chanel House and its mentor Karl Lagerfeld chose the poolside of the famous Raleigh Hotel on South Beach to present a new between seasons collection which will be available in the shops in October. As the word “cruise” suggests, Karl Lagerfeld imagine a complete range for the jetsetters about to set off on their travels: from an elegant black smoking jacket to a pink tie-dye Chanel t-shirt, from the gold sparkling jacket to sexy swimwear, from wide trousers to cocktail dresses, embroidered with jewels right down to the shoes… In short, a luxurious wardrobe for dream destinations.

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto presented his first exceptional Y’s show in Beijing in the Forbidden City at the end of April in aid of his “Yohji Yamamoto Foundation for Peace”. The Japanese designer created 58 outfits especially for the occasion, several of which were sold at auction to raise money for this foundation whose aim is to support young Chinese creativity. This event marks the beginning of other festivities linked to the selection of fashion designers across the world who are supporting the “Yohji Yamamoto Foundation for Peace”.

Summer08shows

During the latest summer 2008 shows, designers have made time for shininess making men turn into urban stars. Therefore the suit is available in a shimmering version, mainly in gold or copper as at Louis Vuitton and D&G. Outfits glisten in white, a touch of sparkle is added just enough to grey and satiny black is the chicest option for the evening.

Dimitris Alexakis

At the forefront of Athenian fashion, Dimitris Alexakis and Grigoris Triantafyllou form the duo of Deux Hommes. Throughout their process of design they always take elements from their Greek roots and transform them into contemporary creations, with a style between ready-to-wear and couture. Their current aim is to expand into the centre of the European market.

Italo Zucchelli

Italo Zucchelli remains faithful to the image created at Calvin Klein, which is to say: minimalist. The general look of the silhouette remains uncluttered but the work on the materials is well-researched, most notably with the use of fabrics which change colour with the heat of the body. Shoulders are square and this season’s new trousers are somewhere between horse-riding and stretch ski pants…the materials mix and fit together giving style to this male wardrobe.

Angelos Bratis

Young up-and-coming designer Angelos Bratis has produced 24 models for 24 hours of the day with a wardrobe composed of black dresses for morning, noon and night. Born in Athens and now just 30 years old, he did part of his studies in Greece and part at the Arnhem Institute in the Netherlands. He likes simple and uncluttered shapes, favouring cuts on the bias and natural materials. His collections are always very feminine and this one for autumn winter 08/09 is no exception.

Dress code

As goes the dress code for summer 2008, the emphasis is without doubt on the shoulders. Women with small frames can stand proud in a low-cut jacket with the “strict but elegant” allure of the Yves Saint Laurent secretaries, the minimalist and futurist look at Martin Margiela, or with the rigid and built-up shoulder pads at Alexander McQueen. Those who prefer rounded shapes can opt for “balloon” sleeves as seen on the spotty dresses by Christian Lacroix or on the structured jackets by Christian Dior. Another way to show off the shoulders is with asymmetry. Roman goddess style dresses are at the forefront with the return of the toga, worn supersized at Gianfranco Ferré. Frilled straps, a great classic, make a statement at Lanvin. Bare shoulders are the real trend for this summer with the strapless bustier dress.

Transparency

This summer 2008 dare to try a bit of transparency according to your assets and preferences. Give in to a white Chloé or brown Celine or Gianfranco Ferré blouse. For those with great legs this trend can be applied with a Céline skirt, pink or black trousers by Karl Lagerfeld, navy blue ones by Chloé, yellow ones by Costume National, or even plum or pale pink trousers by Prada. You can also go for a completely translucent look with a white suit as seen at Dolce & Gabbana and Costume National. For the more timid among us, who wish nonetheless to remain fashionable, opt for the layering of a white blouse over pink Louis Vuitton shorts or a pastel Karl Lagerfeld dress. As night falls, women can bare all in evening dresses and precious cocktail dresses, encrusted with embroideries and lace, as demonstrated at Christian Dior and John Galliano. Sonia Rykiel celebrates women with nymph-like dresses and vaporous silk gazar in powdery shades… A real tribute to beauty. .

Flower Power

What would spring be without a bit of blossom? The oracles of fashion have defined the trend not to miss: flowers… in all shapes and sizes. Some designers lean towards romanticism “natural beauty” style in chiffon dresses printed with cornflowers and pansies teamed with wooden wedges as seen at Stella McCartney or in liberty patchwork worn with sandals as seen at D&G. The dreamy look is the same at John Galliano, with a chic 1920s inspired style, where flowers appear as prints, embroideries, pleats and even accessories. Missoni meanwhile goes for the oversized flower. Hand-painted flowers create an impressive look at Dolce & Gabbana. At Gucci, the emphasis is more rock, with graphic prints based around black, white and yellow. Kenzo and Yohji Yamamoto use primary colours blue, red and yellow. And latex flowers even make an appearance on pale pink and yellow swimming costumes at Sonia Rykiel.

Alexander McQueen

We’re seeing “la vie en rose” this summer 2008, the bubble gum look is super trendy, satiny with matching shoes at Celine, in leather printed with snakeskin at Alexander McQueen, Barbie doll style at Betsey Johnson and fringed at Lanvin. Over garments are not forgotten like the vinyl jacket by Christian Lacroix, along with the Burberry Prorsum trench. Gucci matches candy pink with black and white stripy or squared material. The colour of the summer goes well with vermillion at Costume National, with orange at Versace and with parma at Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino. For the more timid ones among us, there are softer pinks, from babydoll pastels at John Galliano and powder pinks for the dove-grey at Viktor&Rolf, passing through dusty pink suits at Christian Lacroix to flesh-coloured shades at Nina Ricci, Sonia Rykiel and Diane Von Furstenberg.

Flashy colours

To mark the end of dreary tones, summer 2008 brings back flashy colours. For added energy, vitamin colours are making a comeback. Women can shine in different shades of yellow, whether fluorescent at Zac Posen or buttercup at Sonia Rykiel among others. Louis Vuitton presents a yellow ensemble with a blue top and even proposes an orange suit for guaranteed effect! Passion is awakened in a vermillion red dress by Versace. Rainbow effet on T-shirt dresses in reds, pinks and yellows, blending one into the other at Diane Von Furstenberg or in stripes at Mickael Kors. Even on the sporting front vitamin colours are back for mixed doubles at Lacoste. And for the evening, the most daring will strut their stuff in a dress in shades of red and full of character by John Galliano.

Ashley Isham

Ashley Isham who is one of the young in vogue London designers held his show alongside Fashion Week having already acquired a bit of a reputation thanks to his famous clientele, fond of his very feminine, very glamorous outfits worthy of the most important red carpets. His references are among others Madeleine Vionet which can be seen in the way he drapes his jersey dresses accessorized with jewels…

Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche took advantage of Paris Fashion Week to present his new women’s collection for his own label under the name “happening”. The designer blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity by using heavy materials like wool and flannel for elegant trouser suits contrasting with tops and dresses in silk. Neutral colours around grey, black and white for a collection of couture details and full of charm.

Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto

The duo Eley Kishimoto has treated winter 08/09 lightly. The models appear from a blue velvet curtain in straight skirts and bare arms. The jackets and coats mostly have three quarter length sleeves. The designers present us with a fantasy world where rabbits and horses gallivant on dresses and women dare to wear bow ties and white gloves like Mickey Mouse. Prints of feathers and stripes are at the heart of this Pop Art collection. This English-Japanese marriage has produced many hybrid styles; the large Claudine collared coat is a known mix of English style and Japanese “kawai” style, inspired by manga.

Festival of African

The international festival of African fashion has ended in Niger, offering the continent's designers a chance to get international exposure for their work.