Gaspard Yurkievich

Gaspard Yurkievich, new artistic director at Rodier, presented a chic and sensual Gaspard Yurkievich men’s collection for summer 2009. ... His suit trousers bring to mind the famous Chanel tweed jackets, whilst his belted trenches are collarless and the shoes two-coloured.

Udo Edling

An intuitive collection for Udo Edling who, as indicated backstage, didn’t want to follow a specific trend but to ... do what he wanted. The fashion show that took place on the final day of the Haute Couture fashion week was inspired by Fahra Palavi, empress of Iran, and by the Persian rose. So we rediscover powdery colours centred around pinks, purples and chocolate brown. There was lots of legerity in the collection and despite the presence of many coats, it is above all a preview of the summer 2009 collection with suits, skirts and trousers teamed with collarless coats, dresses with impeccable finishes including a long, back revealing number which fits very close to the body.

Angelos Bratis

Young up-and-coming designer Angelos Bratis has produced 24 models for 24 hours of the day with a wardrobe composed of black dresses for morning, noon and night. Born in Athens and now just 30 years old, he did part of his studies in Greece and part at the Arnhem Institute in the Netherlands. He likes simple and uncluttered shapes, favouring cuts on the bias and natural materials. His collections are always very feminine and this one for autumn winter 08/09 is no exception.

Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto

The duo Eley Kishimoto has treated winter 08/09 lightly. The models appear from a blue velvet curtain in straight skirts and bare arms. The jackets and coats mostly have three quarter length sleeves. The designers present us with a fantasy world where rabbits and horses gallivant on dresses and women dare to wear bow ties and white gloves like Mickey Mouse. Prints of feathers and stripes are at the heart of this Pop Art collection. This English-Japanese marriage has produced many hybrid styles; the large Claudine collared coat is a known mix of English style and Japanese “kawai” style, inspired by manga.

Angela Missoni

Angela Missoni's fall winter 2008-2009 collection revisits the great classics of the male wardrobe. Built around sand and camel colours, the show is about contrast. The cut of the jacket rediscovers a suppleness around the shoulders, while on the other hand, there are playful layers: shirts, double breasted jumpers and chunky knitted cardigans to give the men a more built-up silhouette. The look is a casual one. A little plus of this collection which aims to elongate the silhouette is the return of the crossover in tight waisted trousers.

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli opens his men’s winter 2008/09 show by posing with the 5 Spice Girls in the middle of their world tour. Flashes follow the models in chic yet sombre outfits in delicate and well-worked materials like silk, velvet, wool and cashmere. Jackets take centre stage, well-structured in leather and hides. And finally the suits have precious details such as jewelled brooches, highlighting the refined elegance of Cavalli.

Raf Simon

The Jil Sander show by Raf Simon opens on an English note. The first matching grey suits fit in with the current trend of the slim trouser and the belted jacket. Little by little the models display printed fabrics of green, red and blue marbled veins on a black background. At the heart of the Raf Simon collection we are crept up on by the gradual presentation of this black and white marble pattern which becomes increasingly prominent. Two bright red and cyan blue suits brighten this fall winter 2008/09 collection. Close-fitting clothes are the trend, such as the leather suit at the end of the show which shows the chest like a leotard.

Christopher Kane

Awarded designer of the year for 2007 in Great Britain, Christopher Kane is the name on everybody’s lips… For his autumn winter 2008/09 collection he promotes transparency and shine in a wardrobe consisting of long, dress-like, thick knit, Irish jumpers embroidered with large sequins contrasted with sequined muslin dresses and trousers which allow the skin to show through.

Marni

There is a modern and contemporary silhouette at Marni. The man for next winter will shift between a dandy look – belted suit jackets and close-fitting trousers, worn with a white shirt – and a student look with V-neck and short-sleeved jumpers, teamed with shorter trousers. For the really cold weather, jackets with a Tunisian collar slip over the head and short jumpers covering just the shoulders down to the chest seem to be a new option for winter 2008/09.

FASHION WEEK

The cameras are currently focussed on the United States and not just because of the ongoing elections. This week New York starts the dispatch of women’s prêt-à-porter shows for autumn/winter 2008/09. Eight days of collections for around 100 presentations… including the incontrovertible and best known by the general public, along with those most popular with the international press and new talents. A New York rendez-vous to discover the clothing trends for next winter…

Marios Schwab

The autumn winter 08/09 collection by Marios Schwab follows the contours of the feminine form and elongates her to the max. Second skin dresses are sexy and simple. The torn materials on certain looks are inspired by wallpaper described in a book which tells the story of a young woman who is locked up in an attic. The jagged dresses leave the underlying fabrics visible, whether denim or lace… To finish, Marios Schwab proposes a coat which is available right down to the ankle or in a shorter version below the chest.

Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin, known for her work with wool, explores new techniques in knitwear for this fall winter 08/09 collection. The designer promotes a futurist look as she works with volume and graphic cuts. She presents grey dresses with oversized shoulders and a skin tight blue outfit under a sort of black armour made from Swarovski crystals. These experimental works on Eskimo attire bring us to revisit the Inuits’ fur-lined hooded coats.