Italo Zucchelli

Italo Zucchelli remains faithful to the image created at Calvin Klein, which is to say: minimalist. The general look of the silhouette remains uncluttered but the work on the materials is well-researched, most notably with the use of fabrics which change colour with the heat of the body. Shoulders are square and this season’s new trousers are somewhere between horse-riding and stretch ski pants…the materials mix and fit together giving style to this male wardrobe.

Angelos Bratis

Young up-and-coming designer Angelos Bratis has produced 24 models for 24 hours of the day with a wardrobe composed of black dresses for morning, noon and night. Born in Athens and now just 30 years old, he did part of his studies in Greece and part at the Arnhem Institute in the Netherlands. He likes simple and uncluttered shapes, favouring cuts on the bias and natural materials. His collections are always very feminine and this one for autumn winter 08/09 is no exception.

Donna Karan

A floaty line at Donna Karan adapts fluid materials and soft volumes. The silk-satin wrap dress is the master piece of the collection, super supple and belted with a ribbon. A certain nonchalance seems to reign over this show in all its softness, dominated by shades ranging from amethyst to topaz to grey. An oversized handmade jumper warms up little chiffon dresses and the coats made with rows of multicoloured fabric look like fur.

Dreyfuss

A meeting at the Première Classe Fair with designer Jérôme Dreyfuss who proposes different volumes for next winter, from supersized bags to clutches. The designer responds to every girl’s needs in creating accessories for every minute of the day, with many clever ideas including the detachable wallet and pockets for a mobile phone or ipod. He can be found in his completely new first shop in St Germain, Paris.

Dress code

As goes the dress code for summer 2008, the emphasis is without doubt on the shoulders. Women with small frames can stand proud in a low-cut jacket with the “strict but elegant” allure of the Yves Saint Laurent secretaries, the minimalist and futurist look at Martin Margiela, or with the rigid and built-up shoulder pads at Alexander McQueen. Those who prefer rounded shapes can opt for “balloon” sleeves as seen on the spotty dresses by Christian Lacroix or on the structured jackets by Christian Dior. Another way to show off the shoulders is with asymmetry. Roman goddess style dresses are at the forefront with the return of the toga, worn supersized at Gianfranco Ferré. Frilled straps, a great classic, make a statement at Lanvin. Bare shoulders are the real trend for this summer with the strapless bustier dress.

Transparency

This summer 2008 dare to try a bit of transparency according to your assets and preferences. Give in to a white Chloé or brown Celine or Gianfranco Ferré blouse. For those with great legs this trend can be applied with a Céline skirt, pink or black trousers by Karl Lagerfeld, navy blue ones by Chloé, yellow ones by Costume National, or even plum or pale pink trousers by Prada. You can also go for a completely translucent look with a white suit as seen at Dolce & Gabbana and Costume National. For the more timid among us, who wish nonetheless to remain fashionable, opt for the layering of a white blouse over pink Louis Vuitton shorts or a pastel Karl Lagerfeld dress. As night falls, women can bare all in evening dresses and precious cocktail dresses, encrusted with embroideries and lace, as demonstrated at Christian Dior and John Galliano. Sonia Rykiel celebrates women with nymph-like dresses and vaporous silk gazar in powdery shades… A real tribute to beauty. .

Flower Power

What would spring be without a bit of blossom? The oracles of fashion have defined the trend not to miss: flowers… in all shapes and sizes. Some designers lean towards romanticism “natural beauty” style in chiffon dresses printed with cornflowers and pansies teamed with wooden wedges as seen at Stella McCartney or in liberty patchwork worn with sandals as seen at D&G. The dreamy look is the same at John Galliano, with a chic 1920s inspired style, where flowers appear as prints, embroideries, pleats and even accessories. Missoni meanwhile goes for the oversized flower. Hand-painted flowers create an impressive look at Dolce & Gabbana. At Gucci, the emphasis is more rock, with graphic prints based around black, white and yellow. Kenzo and Yohji Yamamoto use primary colours blue, red and yellow. And latex flowers even make an appearance on pale pink and yellow swimming costumes at Sonia Rykiel.

Alexander McQueen

We’re seeing “la vie en rose” this summer 2008, the bubble gum look is super trendy, satiny with matching shoes at Celine, in leather printed with snakeskin at Alexander McQueen, Barbie doll style at Betsey Johnson and fringed at Lanvin. Over garments are not forgotten like the vinyl jacket by Christian Lacroix, along with the Burberry Prorsum trench. Gucci matches candy pink with black and white stripy or squared material. The colour of the summer goes well with vermillion at Costume National, with orange at Versace and with parma at Karl Lagerfeld and Valentino. For the more timid ones among us, there are softer pinks, from babydoll pastels at John Galliano and powder pinks for the dove-grey at Viktor&Rolf, passing through dusty pink suits at Christian Lacroix to flesh-coloured shades at Nina Ricci, Sonia Rykiel and Diane Von Furstenberg.

Flashy colours

To mark the end of dreary tones, summer 2008 brings back flashy colours. For added energy, vitamin colours are making a comeback. Women can shine in different shades of yellow, whether fluorescent at Zac Posen or buttercup at Sonia Rykiel among others. Louis Vuitton presents a yellow ensemble with a blue top and even proposes an orange suit for guaranteed effect! Passion is awakened in a vermillion red dress by Versace. Rainbow effet on T-shirt dresses in reds, pinks and yellows, blending one into the other at Diane Von Furstenberg or in stripes at Mickael Kors. Even on the sporting front vitamin colours are back for mixed doubles at Lacoste. And for the evening, the most daring will strut their stuff in a dress in shades of red and full of character by John Galliano.

Ashley Isham

Ashley Isham who is one of the young in vogue London designers held his show alongside Fashion Week having already acquired a bit of a reputation thanks to his famous clientele, fond of his very feminine, very glamorous outfits worthy of the most important red carpets. His references are among others Madeleine Vionet which can be seen in the way he drapes his jersey dresses accessorized with jewels…