Kris Van Assche

Kris Van Assche took advantage of Paris Fashion Week to present his new women’s collection for his own label under the name “happening”. The designer blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity by using heavy materials like wool and flannel for elegant trouser suits contrasting with tops and dresses in silk. Neutral colours around grey, black and white for a collection of couture details and full of charm.

Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto

The duo Eley Kishimoto has treated winter 08/09 lightly. The models appear from a blue velvet curtain in straight skirts and bare arms. The jackets and coats mostly have three quarter length sleeves. The designers present us with a fantasy world where rabbits and horses gallivant on dresses and women dare to wear bow ties and white gloves like Mickey Mouse. Prints of feathers and stripes are at the heart of this Pop Art collection. This English-Japanese marriage has produced many hybrid styles; the large Claudine collared coat is a known mix of English style and Japanese “kawai” style, inspired by manga.

Festival of African

The international festival of African fashion has ended in Niger, offering the continent's designers a chance to get international exposure for their work.

Lou Doillon

Lou Doillon launches herself this time into clothing. She has just signed a contract of 3 years with Lee Cooper, the denim brand of English origin, to create her own collections. Her first line has just come out and for the occasion a fashion show has even been put on at the prêt-à-porter fair in Paris. From high waisted jeans to second skins, swallow-tailed jackets to extra-large tops, Lou Doillon has produced a fashion in her image, cool and sensual. Interview with Lou Doillon.

brand Eric Bompard

The brand Eric Bompard (cashmere specialist) has celebrated, with several celebrities, a completely new boutique situated on the most beautiful avenue in the world, the Champs Elysées… A space of 600m² on 3 levels conceived by architect Christophe Delcourt, displays all the collections of the label from Men’s to Children’s and from Women’s to Home, as well as the range of coats, jackets and car coats presented under the label “Street Number 2”.

Chanel Jewellery

18 Place Vendôme in Paris is the new place for Chanel Jewellery. The space, entirely rethought by architect Peter Marino, has reopened its doors this week. Little art deco-style salons strongly inspired by the private apartments of Gabriel Chanel are set around a cascade of bronze and rock crystal. And to celebrate this opening Chanel has launched the “18 Place Vendôme” collection of the best quality jewellery made from diamonds as well as a limited edition version of the J12 watch.

Athens

Over the last few years Athens has become increasingly trendy and fashionable in terms of shopping. Not to miss: Kolonaki, a sort of Avenue Montaigne in the centre of the Greek capital, is becoming the area of the chic shops. The Sotris boutique, 41 Voukourestiou street, is making its name by presenting the last collections of the big fashion houses. Bettina, has the beautiful task of designers of Greek origin like John Varvatos, as for Enni di Monaco, this place takes and supports fashion designers like Zac Posen, Antonio Berardi, Hussein Chalayan…

Miriam Ponsa

Miriam Ponsa comes from Barcelona. A young designer, she is an invited member to Athens Fashion Week. She works latex in different ways – flesh-coloured or black, sequined or painted – and in different shapes – in overalls, in collars, in skirts, verily even in culottes – that she has mixed in cotton and linen. A very interesting experimental collection, and not only for fetishists !

Chambre syndicale de la couture

Graduate of the "chambre syndicale de la couture", follower of the OFF calendar of Haute Couture, designer Anne Valérie Hash has presented her last summer 2008 collection during the week of prêt-à-porter shows in Paris. The designer proposes light and delicate outfits in materials like tulle, organza and satin in neutral tones like white, cream and grey with touches of mustard.

Jeu de Paume gallery

The Jeu de Paume gallery in Paris devotes an immense tribute to the of modern photography, American Edward Steichen. Iconoclastic artist, he was a portraitist, collector, museum director, but above all he was renowned for his portraits of celebrities from Churchill to Marlène Dietrich and for his still lifes… He worked in advertising and in fashion and was one of the first to generalize art and business.

Footballers in underwear

100 footballers in underwear presided over an immense scene. In terms of presentation, Dirk Bikkembergs has hit hard to unveil his first Underwear collection. The sportsman’s athletic body remains a symbol for the Belgian designer, located in Italy, where he has incidentally just bought back Fossombrone Football Club.

Fendi 2008 Show_Great Wall of China

It was the fashion event of the year. After more than 6 months of preparation, the illustrious Italian house of Fendi presented its Spring/Summer 2008 show on the Great Wall of China, fifty kilometres from Peking. Karl Largerfeld, artistic director of the label, orchestrated this show where 80 models paced along 120 metres of staging in front of 500 hand-picked guests.

Greek John Varvatos

The Athens sky was rainy to welcome the return of Greek John Varvatos, located in New York where he habitually presents his men’s fashion collection. For next summer, he works a wardrobe with a comfortable appearance in tones of grey and stone with emphasis placed on suspenders and scarves. Interview with John Varvatos.

Cesare Paciotti

Italian shoemaker, Cesare Paciotti, has presented his Summer 2008 collection in his shop in Avenue Montaigne in Paris. That which the family and more precisely the father started in 1948 with men’s shoes, has seen an active success with women thanks to the chic and elegant footwear. It continues to develop lines of accessories, jewellery and clothing across the world and even manages to shoe comedians for a piece of theatre. The next publicity campaign, shot by Mario Sorrenti, able to be seen from January 2008, shows a girl lapdancing….a scandal to follow !

Yves Saint Laurent

"Theatre, cinema, music-hall, ballet” presents the different costumes and even staging designed by Yves Saint Laurent throughout his long career. For the seventh exhibition at the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent foundation, scene designer Christophe Martin opens the doors to a universe which blends couture, design and performance. It presents the opportunity to see up close the black dress worn by Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour de Bunuel and the famous outfits of Zizi Jeanmaire. Numerous sketches mounted on the walls demonstrate the limitless talent and imagination of Yves Saint Laurent.

Roberto Cavalli

The Italian couturier, Roberto Cavalli, renowned the world over for his “jewelled and sequinned” clothing has opened his first boutique in France, in Paris. Situated at Avenue Montaigne, this new luxury temple of 500m² makes available all the lines of the Italian couturier in one place, whether it’s for man or for woman, without forgetting accessories and shoes. Victoria Beckham, a big fan of the designer, was of course present for the opening of the boutique during Fashion Week in October.

Elina Lebessi

Elina Lebessi’s own boutique has been established in Athens for the last 15 years. After a brief stay in France where she studied at Studio Berçot, Elina chose to return to Greece to found her own clothing label. For summer 2008, bright colours are honoured in the embroidered baroque pearls, lace trimmings and multicoloured ribbons echo the Lacroix House where the designer did an internship. Interview with Elina Lebessi in french.

Tara Jarmon

Tara Jarmon chose to show her new winter 2008 collection in the midst of the mayhem of Paris Fashion Week. The designer imagined coats in curly sheep’s wool or leopard as well as a range of outfits in hot shades of yellow, orange and red. The launch of the “ball edition” line exclusively proposes goddess evening dresses in black velvet or apricot satin, with or without straps, fit for the red carpet.

Fashion Newspaper

When English photographer Martin Parr and designer Paul Smith collaborated, the result was a set of photographs taken on the streets of London of unknown citizens wearing the last winter collection. These images, several examples of which can be found in the Paul Smith boutique in Paris, have also been published in a pink newspaper called “Fashion Newspaper” in which the other works of Martin Parr from all over the world feature. Newspaper sold exclusively in Paul Smith boutiques.

Chantelle label

The bra is 100 years old and that is well worth putting the spotlight on these few centimetres squared of fabrics which have told so much about woman and her evolution in society. To mark the occasion Chantelle, who has shared its knowledge with us since 1876, presents a show of revised models in limited edition.

Deux Hommes

Grigoris Triantafyliou and Dimitris Alexakis have presented their new spring/summer 2008 collection during Athens Fashion Week. Known under the label Deux Hommes, the Greek duo proposed clothing in hot shades to reflect the colours of the Mediterranean. A graphic spirit is released from the start. The two designers also have fun with ribbons and zips and their prints remind you of the Hermès scarves.

Donna Karan

Famous designer Donna Karan has opened “Urban Zen” in New York this Fall. A workshop-boutique dedicated to the spiritual world and the research of well-being. This new shopping place is also a place for meetings, seminars and charitable activities, notably for the fight against cancer, the disease which took Donna Karan’s husband a few years ago.

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren celebrated his 40 year long career in the middle of New York Fashion Week in front of a floor full of stars, including Robert de Niro and Dustin Hoffman. The man who has been dubbed the master of sportswear presented a glamorous show followed by grand dinner. An equestrian trend with jodhpurs, lavaliere shirts and waisted jackets and a “red carpet” trend with numerous dresses in muslin or taffeta, the American designer has demonstrated once again in this show that he is at ease in any area.

Everland

Somewehere between a hotel and a work of art, a capsule of 35m² called “Everland” created by Sabrina Lang and Daniel Baumann, a duo of artists based in Swizerland labelled L/B, has been placed on the roof of the Palais de Tokyo for a year. It is only possible to spend one night in this futuristic-retro room with portholes providing a view across Paris. Night time comes with a unique experience.

Baron

Already renowned for his men appearing on walls all over Paris and for having founded the most hyped up club called Baron, artist André, who even has a corner at Colette, and his sidekicks such as Thierry Costes have opened a restaurant-hotel in their image simply named “Amour”. Situated in the heart of Paris, between the Grand Boulevards and Pigalle, this place has 20 rooms, all slightly different, with disco balls on the ceiling, display cabinets of magazines, puppets and photos of Terry Richardson hung on the walls… a childlike universe, it is at the same time kitsch and arty!

Chanel Fashionshow

It has become an event: once a year, Chanel puts on a show presenting the work of haute couture artisans who have been brought back by the celebrated house of the two C’s (the boot maker Masaro, the feather maker Lemarié, the embroiderer François Lesage, the hat maker Michel…) And it is not by accident that Karl Lagerfeld chose a gallery in London to present a new collection with such precious detail. While the music by Julian Lennon and the top model Irina Lazareanu resounded around the room, the models walked with backcombed hair and eyes emphasized with eye-liner. The couturier doesn’t hide the fact he is inspired by Amy Winehouse and Pete Doherty, two famous singers from the other side of the Channel.

Olivier Grammatico

Blue, and more exactly ocean colours, from green lagoon to deep blue, is the new super trendy colour for 2008 as observed by jewellery designers. They started a quest all over the world for precious bluish stones of which the different virtues of calming and anti-stress effects are recognised. Tourmaline, which is understandably very much in demand for its incredible colours, is also one of the most well-loved stones, for men as well as for women in the year to come.

Chantelle boutique

Here is a French lingerie label, Chantelle, which has innovated and initiated a completely new concept of the boutique with the beauty of the body at its heart. The beauty room, cosmetic bar, everything has been designed so that women feel confident in the hands of the beauty advisors who guide them in their discovery of the new “Chantelle effects” in a welcoming and intimate environment…. Plus a range of lingerie focused on chic couture, care products and a line of lounge wear to feel good at home.

Morgane Rousseau

A house with four floors, hidden by an immense iron gate in the depths of a dead end alley, not far from Montmartre, has been transformed into a very particular hotel with five luxurious suites decorated in extravagance and comfort by Morgane Rousseau. The mistress of the house has also appealed to numerous artists to make this place both homely and magical.

Heimstone label

They are young, beautiful and talented. Delphine Delafon and Alix Petit are two stylists who met at Michel Klein and who decided to throw themselves in the deep end and start their own label called Heimstone. Their niche: dresses which are retro and at the same time elegant, dubbed “pupitre” (the school desk), “officier” (official) and “motard” (biker), accompanied by leather jackets, knitted gilets and even accessories made with industrial bolts.Their own shop has been open since October 2007, located on rue du Cherche-Midi in Paris.

Paco Rabanne

Trained architect couturier Paco Rabanne renews his first loves and creates a collection of chairs for Aïtali inspired by the great emblematic themes that have forged both his style and his legend…. Rhodoïds, pearls, chains and rivets relive a second youth and play with transparency and light resulting in 6 very Haute-Couture style chairs unveiled at Salon Maison & Objet!

HUGO BOSS

It was an extraordinary setting inspired by the film “Blade Runner”, located in an arena in Barcelona usually frequented by bulls which was the backdrop for the presentation of the “Hugo Boss Orange” Spring/Summer 2008 collection. A sportswear line consisting of skinny trousers, baggy trousers and hooded sweatshirts for men and women was much liked by spectators who did not hesitate to pull out some dance moves at the end of the show.

Wedding dresses

Weddings take over the fair at the Carrousel du Louvre in Paris from the 11th to the 13th January 2008. A glance at the collections for 2008 with more than 15 exhibitors and the latest trends in terms of wedding dresses and formal dress for men.

Alexandre ring

Having worked for the greatest jewellers on place Vendôme (Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels among others) Alexandre Janot, an overqualified expert in diamonds and precious stones, today exercises his know-how with made-to-measure orders in a private office near Invalides (Paris). Unseen jewellery concepts, adaptable and customized, aimed at men and women!

Tahitian Pearl Trophy

The 5th edition of the 'Tahitian Pearl Trophy' took place at the beginning of December in the Salons of the Ritz Hotel in Paris. It is an international competition for which jewellery designers from around the world were required to imagine a piece of jewellery based on Tahitian pearls around the theme of 'the song of the stars'. This year 56 French designers were selected and only 11 of them were awarded the honour of participating in different categories (necklace, ring, men's jewellery, etc.) at the international event which will take place in 2008.

Gabbana man

The Dolce & Gabbana man will certainly be ready to brave the wintry weather. Long jackets in reversed sheepskin, XL jumpers in thick knits, long stoles wrapped around the neck, caps fitted onto the head and mittens over the fingers make up the warm wardrobe of the pair Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana who came to greet their public in white shirts and black ties. As for the suit, it is a 3 piece and is worn close to the body for the daytime as well as the evening in a dinner jacket version…

Chic me

It was in the presence of Beyonce that the Apollos of Donatella Versace paraded. The chic men were wrapped in luxurious materials (cashmeres and furs) worked into jackets and coats. A military spirit reigns throughout this collection, set in various shades of deep colours (midnight blue, navy, purple). And for the evening, gleaming smoking jackets are teamed with black sequins…

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Piero Manzoni

Sardinian Antonio Marras was inspired by Pierro Manzoni, an Italian artist from the 60s made famous by his work with retrieved rubbish. This resulted in a patchwork fashion, consisting of suits with shortened trousers, tight-fitting jackets and patched-up shirts. A casual allure for a collection dominated by light colours and also consisting of long gilets and Jacquard jumpers.

Ennio Capasa

Ennio Capasa takes a look at the chic Londoner as he cleverly uses the so British tartan and reinventing it in his own way… Sportswear and classicism work well for Costume National, the Italian label which celebrates its 21st birthday this year. Tight trousers are worn with thick soled boots and coats are belted at the waist…

Angela Missoni

Angela Missoni's fall winter 2008-2009 collection revisits the great classics of the male wardrobe. Built around sand and camel colours, the show is about contrast. The cut of the jacket rediscovers a suppleness around the shoulders, while on the other hand, there are playful layers: shirts, double breasted jumpers and chunky knitted cardigans to give the men a more built-up silhouette. The look is a casual one. A little plus of this collection which aims to elongate the silhouette is the return of the crossover in tight waisted trousers.

Miuccia Prada

The on the one hand reserved Miuccia Prada had her men parade round a spiral platform dressed in double collared shirts like dog collars, shirtfronts with abstract-looking straps on the back and G-strings protruding above trousers. Tiny enticing skirts serve as belts… the more austere-looking double-breasted suits fasten with asymmetrical concealed buttons. To finish, the patent shoes or a geometrical cut add a touch of originality to this wardrobe, full of convenience.

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli opens his men’s winter 2008/09 show by posing with the 5 Spice Girls in the middle of their world tour. Flashes follow the models in chic yet sombre outfits in delicate and well-worked materials like silk, velvet, wool and cashmere. Jackets take centre stage, well-structured in leather and hides. And finally the suits have precious details such as jewelled brooches, highlighting the refined elegance of Cavalli.

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen extends an invitation to far-off places around India and the heights of the Himalayas. The English designer, who presents his men’s wear collections in Milan, has for winter 2008 delivered a range aimed at style-conscious adventurers and travellers aware of elegance and detail. The Savile Row touch is never too far away. Cardigans braided with metal, entirely embroidered gold coats, suits with double-breasted jackets and long shawls tied up like a dressing gown, without forgetting the Russian fur hats and cowboy hats which bring a touch of humour and frivolity dear to McQueen.

Raf Simon

The Jil Sander show by Raf Simon opens on an English note. The first matching grey suits fit in with the current trend of the slim trouser and the belted jacket. Little by little the models display printed fabrics of green, red and blue marbled veins on a black background. At the heart of the Raf Simon collection we are crept up on by the gradual presentation of this black and white marble pattern which becomes increasingly prominent. Two bright red and cyan blue suits brighten this fall winter 2008/09 collection. Close-fitting clothes are the trend, such as the leather suit at the end of the show which shows the chest like a leotard.

John Richmond

John Richmond presented a more composed and serious men’s wear collection this season. The show opens with numerous velvet suits (midnight blue, purple, black) with bell-bottomed trousers. Then it follows the more rock’n’roll edge dear to the English designer who has pinpointed his inspiration as Bryan Jones from the Rolling Stones. Embroideries and glitz appear on the evening outfits where the dandy chic look gains the upper hand.

Christopher Kane

Awarded designer of the year for 2007 in Great Britain, Christopher Kane is the name on everybody’s lips… For his autumn winter 2008/09 collection he promotes transparency and shine in a wardrobe consisting of long, dress-like, thick knit, Irish jumpers embroidered with large sequins contrasted with sequined muslin dresses and trousers which allow the skin to show through.

Marni

There is a modern and contemporary silhouette at Marni. The man for next winter will shift between a dandy look – belted suit jackets and close-fitting trousers, worn with a white shirt – and a student look with V-neck and short-sleeved jumpers, teamed with shorter trousers. For the really cold weather, jackets with a Tunisian collar slip over the head and short jumpers covering just the shoulders down to the chest seem to be a new option for winter 2008/09.

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani was surrounded by his team as he came to greet the public at the end of his men’s wear show this week in Milan. A rich collection accompanied by one or two feminine items. As for the new Armani aesthetic, the models could have come straight out of a gangster film but with the elegance of James Bond nonetheless! The clothes are given volume by multiple jackets and coats fashioned in luxurious materials like leather or crocodile-skin and fur linings. Trousers appear padded, jumpers finish in scarves and shirts with a high neck. The accessories, from bags to gloves and sunglasses to hats, leave this collection both refined and mysterious

Jean-Paul Gaultier

After Jean-Paul Gaultier (whose show took place the same day), it was Yohji Yamamoto’s turn to bring back the ebowlr hat. The Japanese designer’s men appeared in big suits, with rounded shapes, perhaps nearer to a Charlie Chaplin look than anything else! Having been ever-present in the menswear shows in Milan, Scottish materials are flying thee flag in Paris and cho in a recurring fashion, more and more extensively throughout the show, which finishes by transforming into a really voluminous blanket in which the Yamamoto man enjoys wrapping up.

FASHION WEEK

The cameras are currently focussed on the United States and not just because of the ongoing elections. This week New York starts the dispatch of women’s prêt-à-porter shows for autumn/winter 2008/09. Eight days of collections for around 100 presentations… including the incontrovertible and best known by the general public, along with those most popular with the international press and new talents. A New York rendez-vous to discover the clothing trends for next winter…